Attic Progress: Floors, Paint and Trim
It’s been awhile since I updated on the attic progress, and it’s certainly come a long way since the drywall and paint of a few months ago. I made a big push to get all the trim in place, as the electrician couldn’t get back in there without the baseboards in. We’d elected to have our wall outlets placed in the baseboard, you see. And I couldn’t hang baseboards until the floor was finished … so many dependencies in a project like this!

We’d intended to re-install the flooring we removed last summer. It was not the highest-quality Doug Fir, but it looked similar to all the “before” samples we saw in flooring showrooms sold as “reclaimed fir,” so we thought we’d save a few bucks and re-use the stuff we had. Turns out we didn’t have enough to use, and what we did have was covered in lead paint, so we had to come up with another option. Thankfully, our flooring guy was able to track down some gorgeous new CVG (clear vertical grain) fir locally, and we went ahead with that option. The material cost was higher (it wasn’t free), but the install cost dropped quite a bit since newly milled stuff is so consistent in width and machining, it requires less labor to install. And it looks amazing, as you can see from the photo below (the paintings are encaustic originals by Portland artist Amy Ruppel from her “state bird series.” The one on the left is Iowa’s Eastern Goldfinch; the one on the right is the Common Loon of Minnesota. I’m from Iowa, Sarah’s from Minnesota.)

From there, it was relatively quick work to get the baseboards in for the electrician, thanks to my Dewalt chop saw. I got a new blade for the trim work, a Freud 80-tooth
. I considered the Forrest Chopmaster
, but couldn’t bring myself to buy yet a $130+ blade. I love my Woodworker II
on the table saw, but I just don’t use a chop saw that often.
One thing I will say - I’ve used pre-primed MDF trim (both standard and ultralight versions) throughout the project, and would highly recommend it, both from a cost savings standpoint (less than a third the cost of poplar), and also ease of installation. I mean, it’s pre-primed. What’s not to love about that?
Once the baseboards were in, I dallied a bit on finishing some of the other trim to move forward with a built-in Sarah had requested early in the project, a bench over in the corner she’ll use as a reading nook. I found a nice plan on finehomebuilding.com (a great resource for remodeling that’s answered many of my questions, and worth the subscription fee) that I used as the basis for my own version. It’s basically some 3/4″ poplar plywood, a piano hinge and some trim scraps. The whole thing went together in two hours, I’ll bet, and it was built in situ, so it fits the space perfectly (or it looks like it does with some caulk!).

Probably my favorite feature of the project so far, though, is the door that separates the bedroom from the bathroom (still very much a work in progress). We bought a door from the Rebuilding Center, a local materials recycling center for just $20, and it even had the original wavy glass when we brought it home. But, the low cost carried a hidden price: the door was covered in at least four coats of lead paint that had to be removed.

Fortunately, demand for green products is now common enough that there’s a non-toxic version of almost every chemical, paint stripper included. I put on a thick coat of something called Ready Strip and followed that with a thicker coat of elbow grease. It wasn’t a walk in the park, but it was nice to work without gloves or mask on and the stuff actually smelled pretty good.

Once the years of lead paint were gone, I had a few other issues to contend with. In my attempts to get the glass out in one piece, I broke it, as well as the wood molding holding it in place. There were also quite a few holes left by the door lock hardware that had to be filled, as I had another mounting idea in mind. I did this with a few carefully placed dutchmen (re-using some of the old flooring) installed with the help of my mini router and a sharp chisel.

After a few coats of clear Seal-A-Cell, I moved on to hardware, which was surprisingly difficult to find. I’m not sure where I first saw barn door hardware used, but I thought its rustic look would go really well with the rustic door. I ended up locating it at a farm store nearby called Wilco, and it was among the cheapest hardware I’ve bought for the project (total of about $50). I am so pleased with the results.

Every cake needs icing, and every door needs its glass. Since I’d broken the original, I went out on a limb and tracked down some security glass, aka wire glass from Culver Glass, a local specialty supplier. But that wasn’t enough. My door needed a little more, supplied by an amazing Portland craftsman named Lee Littlewood, proprietor of Lee’s Better Letters.

Lee hand-painted the front of the glass to my specifications, using as inspiration my direction that “the type style should look like it came from a factory door, circa 1930 or so.” He did a few sketches on paper, then painted the type directly on the glass in black enamel. Once that had dried hard for a few days, he added silver-colored gold leaf to the interior of the letters, burnished on in a light circular pattern. No computers were used, except in the exchange of paper sketches. I could not be happier.
Well, maybe if the tile fairy finished the bathroom for me.